zNews 16. Translated by Michel Aronssohn.

BURMA Or MYANMAR ?

I read and heard often that Myanmar is considered as the most beautiful Asia's detination.

And the kindness of the inhabitants is unique. 

It’s well known that exception confirms the rule, this story will certainly show the  

exception.

I leave Equinox on Saturday March 12^th 2006 9am, and, with a small bag with only the   

necessary to live. I fly from Singapore to Bangkok and Udon Thani (north Thailand) then   

a bus to Laos.

In the evening of the same day, at 8pm I’am in my usual hotel in Vientiane

Is the Captain tortuous Why going to Laos to join Myanmar?

To enter in Myanmar a visa is necessary! I didn't want to stay  stucked between 3 and 5 days in Singapore or Bangkok to get this mandatory document. I prefer, by far, to stay in Laos.. As you remember it, I like this country a lot and maybe at the same time I’ll be able to see a girlfriend. The consulate quotes 4 days waiting time, I return 2 days after and the staff told to me:  "it is ready! ."

Flight to Bangkok and at 7pm I’m in Yangon’s hotel.

No guide book for backpackers or Lonely planet style, however  I find the White House’s guesthouse, the sumptuous buffet breakfast with a fruit juice thick as yogurt compensates the lack of comfort of the rooms.

In this sober room very sober but clean, I live my first hours in Myanmar while already cursing against the government.

In the airport arrival hall I note an exchange office. Of course in these places the exchange rate is not convenient but I like to get immediately local currency. So. I ask the teller to change 100 $, oh no he replies, change only 50, in city exchange rate is a lot better. As soon as I reach the city I compare the rates, disaster, this is a first class swindling, curses were on the way.  I control my impulses: it is only the beginning and the government's teller was correct while suggesting to change only 50 $.

We'll see farther than I didn't always control my impulses and nowadays I am pretty sure that I near missed the jail.

The Myanmar :

1044: Foundation of the first Burmese empire by king Anawratha, in Pagan (High Burma).

1824-1885:  anglo-Burmese wars. The result was the annexation of High Burma by London that makes of it an India’s colony. During World War II, the country was occupied by the Japanese troops, then freed.

On January 4th, 1948 the country becomes independent and leave the Commonwealth, the Prime minister being U Nu, he establishes a parliamentary democracy (1948-1958).

In 1962 general Ne Win makes a military putsch, and reign during more of twenty-six years, enforcing  Marxist reforms.

In 1988, the army repressed violently a movement of protest against the economic and political situation:  On august 8th, 1988, the soldiers opened fire on the protesting crowd, this day was then  commemorated as “the 8888 uprising.". Nevertheless, the indirect consequence of this movement was that it permitted to held  elections.

In 1990 free elections took place, but were cancelled  by the military dictatorship since it was disavowed by the electors.

One man of influence in the country was the general Aung San, former activist student.His daughter, Aung San Suu Kyi, was awarded  Peace Nobel prize in 1991, for her fight for peace and the freedom in Burma. A third man is internationally known : U Thant, permanent  Burma’s representative at the  UNO, with ambassador's rank (1957-1961) then General Secretary of the UNO 1962-1966 and 1966-1971.

November 7th, 2005:  the capital is transferred from Yangon in Pyinmana.

Burma is the biggest country in Southeast Asia. It includes, in addition to the Burmese majority, several ethnic minorities with their own language and their own culture. Seven "national races" are recognized by the government:  Shan, My, Karen, Karenni, Chin, Kachin, Rakhine (Arakan). The heterogeneity of this population is at the origin of the numerous intra-community problems arising in the country. It should be noted  that in the Mea Hon Song, East of Thailand a Karen tribe took refuge; it id barely tolerated, and is not entitled to  plant or to sow on the Thai soil. (Some years ago I lived for a few days in this tribe. The women are not very kindly qualified as “women giraffes” due to the rings they carry around their neck.)

According to the UNICEF, 27% only of the children are completing  their primary education.

Burma is an ASEAN’s member (Association of the Southeastern Asian nations) and should take the presidency during the 2006.

A dictatorship, the state of the Myanmar is governed by the martial law since 1962 and controlled again by a military dictatorship since the September 1988 putsch. Forced work is a current practice. The international human rights organizations classify Burma among bad elements as far as  public liberties are concerned . Press liberty and human rights are not respected, the judicial power is not autonomous from  the government and the opposing parties are not tolerated. The army, strong of 40 000 men, doesn't have any outside enemy. Its unique role is to take control of the population.

Here is the national motto:

Happiness is in harmoniously disciplined  life.

Do you understand?

Hello! Oh, my first morning in the Myanmar. Usually , I wander in city looking for a market. The streets enliven. Someone opens his shop or displays it straight on the sidewalk. I notice a bearded man with a fundamentalist look, who is coating leaves with a white liquid and lay down  various seeds before rolling the leaf. Ok, understood,  that’s the famous betel that makes people spit red. Here everybody, even women and girls are chewing  this mixture. He offers me to try, ok but not with the white liquid (it is said to be lime).

No mopeds In Yangon. I like this city and during the journey I always was pleased  to come back here. Several ethnic and religious communities are living together without problems. On one evening I noticed, near my district  mosque, men, children, women clothed with black dresses  entering for prayer. I ask an old man, who wonders what I am making here. He is happy to inform me it is a Muslim Shiite feast  not a Sunnite one.

Of course I went to admire the Pagoda Shwedagon, a marvel. Upon entering a government's commissioner demand 10 $!?! What is it 10 $ to fatten these assholes. NO!, I have a good zoom lens, so I’ll take pictures from afar. The Captain ignored yet that it was sufficient (should Government  commissioner is alone) to propose 3 $ without taking the ticket !

Then I walk around the Pagoda, I go up and from there I get a magnificent view of the esplanade. Let’s  go for pictures. A monk comes and we have a chat… After one hour, visit of this beautiful place, a woman comes to meet me affirming that I omitted to  pay, the fee. The Burmese Intelligence is at the top. She drives me to the teller, I asserted that for security reasons, I left my money in the hotel. So  she shown me therefore out! Back in  the street I was satisfied of my relations with the government, with the  airport incident, 1 to 1.

You’ll thereafter, I’ll  won! Oh not by far 3 to 2.

Here I am in the French ATR 72 plane flying to  Mandalay. The roads being in worst conditions than Laos, I selected this means of transportation.

King Mindon city is without doubt the country’s cultural home. Moving with trishaw, you feel good life. The market at night, is a bit gloomy but, at least authentic, and not touristic. Three interesting villages around Mandalay, are accessible in tuk tuk,:  Sagain, Amarapura (Amapura) and Ava.

Handicraft:  a pure marvel. It is possible to find the finests kalagas.The raw stone is wonderfully chiseled, the statues are impressive.

I am lucky, since a long time I am looking for a Buddha's statue with the right hand turning outwards, name of this position:  Buddha taking the earth as a witness. It’s at last in front of me.

It should weigh a ton! Ok I am happy  to have seen it !

One evening in Yangon I was chatting  with an old man, about everything, except political, topics. Forbidden subject! Do you know that more than 7 peoples gatherings are not allowed. He gave me, in short a lot of  information and especially advised me to go to  a nice village, names Pyin-Oo-Lwin.

Early in the morning I take a taxicab, driver and four passengers. My three companions didn't talk during the whole journey, full blackout! That allows me  to say that even though the exception confirms the rule, it is not necessary to believe that they are frendier people than in Laos.

The interest is not only within the city, the road is also beautiful because it overhangs the Mandalay valley (it rhymes as would say my granddaughter), this city is situated on a plateau.

67km and complete disorientation. Old stagecoach to the gaudy colors, splendid colonial homes and an extraordinary market.            

What a beautiful day!

Should I have stayed overnight in this small city, I won't have failed to notice, what is not a secret for its inhabitants. Being located on the road axis from Lashio to the Yunnan Chinese border. Truck traffic at night is enormous and traffic is really the proper word

Goodbye Mandalay and surroundings on the way to Bagan

While arriving, I don't know the governmental structures or better to say the governmental combines !

I enter the small airport arrival hall. A guy in navy blue dress informs me that it’s necessary to pay here 10 $. Why? No answer, it’s so. I refuse and ask explanations. A second guy comes, more educated, He tries to explain that  the visiting voucher must bought right here.

I don't come here to visit!!! And the tone especially the Captain’s goes up, goes up, then I slap him not 10 $ but 10 banknotes of 10000 kiats on his face (I don't joke), the fan blows around the banknotes in the room, the 2 guys run here and there  to catch them up. Sir, 100 000 kiats for 10 $ it not enough, here the change is 10300 kiat for 1 $, I still refuse.

The cashier closes the drawer, one of the 2 guys explains to me that I must board the plane;;; which already left, and the police begins to look at me strangely. A short glance indicates me that I am the only “farang” in the place. Considering that the worst hotel must be far superior to the luxurious Burmese jails, I take back rudely my kyats and abandon quickly 10$. The government scored his second and last point.

I learned that whatever  the  transportation means, a guy of the government is staying  to make acquit the tax. The organization is such that arriving at the hotel, the staff demanded the corresponding 10 $ voucher. before demanding  the passport

Of course, you may object, If you are not happy, you can go anywhere in another country.

But to whom this extorted money does benefit? The universities are closed and the people is oppressed and suffers. Do not compare the ticket to visit the Louvre museum and this system devised  by dictators.

I really begin to suffocate.

No  telephone calls ( very expensive), the web sites ?, locked, very difficult to send messages to  family using computer tricks. A youngster succeeded to open Yahoo while passing through www.wintergreens.com, a magic formula.!

            Not possible to withdraw money with passport and credit card.

            Everywhere, day and night there are electricity shortages, and hotels and other outlets run generators. According to reliable sources electric power is actually sufficient in the country however according to the motto …!!!

People would say : if I am not pleased go elsewhere. NO, the country and the Burmese people are pleasing me and we should help them to progress (it will also rely on the tourist’ behavior), anyhow should we have to pay, better to pay to the people.

Bagan:  Magnificent!

I rent a bicycle and here am I, pedaling on the lanes from  one temple to another.  

From the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy river, sunset is a magic moment.

Bagan is Burma’s jewel, this sanctuary with more than 2000 pagodas and temples is a Buddhist gem. I don't get tired while wandering  among the temples.

These are characteristic Bagan constructions, they are in general of 2 styles, either a simple chapel with one  entry, or a more complex type with 4 entries. The architecture is remarkable by the perfection of the arches and the adornments.

Undoubtedly the journey’s top moment.

So I’ll be again unpleasant..

Usually in the evening after one day on bicycle, I drink a beer in a Burmese restaurant (I mean not intended for tourists), and later I have lunch, food here is excellent

 It’s my last evening, I ask the check, the waitress tell me:  "  to day beer has increased"

 Ah, I answered, it occurred between 5pm and 7h30pm, since at 5pm I paid the same price than yesterday. She didn't understand why I didn't accept without debating to palm off half a buck more.

I looked at her and smiling I told her:  No! I pay for the price, period, You are stupid Government sponsored, shopkeeper trying to swindle me, young “new rich”, you’ll not have a kyat more, I’ll give it to those who need.it  The tone was raising up again.

Understand my reaction, of course I don’t skimp for ½ dollar however the shopkeeper are considering themselves as new rich, upstarts and become government's sponsors. Numerous shop are displaying signs like "store recommended by the government."

Some shopkeepers  looking the cash box filling up, want to increase the filling speed! (I saw some tourists letting a gratuity of one beer value, what should think the shopkeeper about that?).

So the people represent only a minority, the Government, the police, the army and the shopkeepers that consider themselves as evolved riches are against him. What destiny, what future for them!

The plane lands at HeHo, 1 hour of taxicab and I’m near the Inlé lake.

The next day I rent a pirogue, the young pilot informs me that we must pass before the the Government teller to pay  10$  tax: to sail on the lake. Take it easyl my friend, 5 $ for you if you transform the pirogue  into a submarine, we passed through a ditch  100m behind the Govt officer home. I don't know who of the two was the happiest the kid that pocketed 5 $ (he earns 0.1 $ per day) or the Captain who had just scored 2 a.

The lake is a depression in the valley; it’s shallow, 1,5m to 6m during the rainy  season.

We visited all villages inhabited by  different ethnic groups. The floating gardens are remarkable. The main inhabitants are the Inthas, they are especially renowned for their way to paddle with the legs.

The bicycle allows me to discover the city of Nyaungshwe very near to the lake shore, I noticed a very poor district, quickly I go back to the hotel and the children see me back  one hour later with bags. They understood quickly, I chose to distribute here the dolls and games that I had taken in France in my granddaughter’s toys trunk.

Incredible impression, the little girl looks at the doll, turn it up and down, she, perhaps, never

saw one.

Go back to Yangon, ouf!, finally at home!

While entering in the White lodge, I give a look at the mail box, upon my  departure, I had left some letters to be mailed, I was assured that they’ll leave the same day. They were still stucked. I was told “they’ll leave today for sure”

The Captain shut up,  takes the letters back, and, too bad for the breakfast, change guesthouse.

Then I go to the Okynawa hotel, 10 $ by night if I’m alone (in Myanmar alone for sure!!!) and with air-conditioning.

Ok however I inform  the manager, that by this time the air conditioning is not functioning. “At the moment no electricity and, you know, the customers don't like too much the generator because it is noisy.

AhhhhHHHH no more lies! It is not for the noise but for saving diesel oil. So no generator, I pay only 5 $ or I phone the DICTATORRRR!!!

I slept in  the cool.

The following day trip to Bago by local bus. This city possesses the biggest  sleeping Buddha in Burma, possibly  of all Asia, 16m height and 55m of long. It’s represented eyes opened. This is rare. You should certainly know what is the meaning of this position.

To drive there, I rent a motorcycle with a young driver. About the tax? No problem he replied me, I have a ticket that was already used two times, it’s OK.

That is it, 3 to 2, I win!

The next day I travel with a local bus to Kyaikhtiyo. There is the famous Golden Rock, high place of the Burmese Buddhism. The origins of the site are not sur, for some people the sanctuary would have been built during the lifetime of Buddha on one of his hair.

Two hotels each one more miserable and  a Monk singing all night through with sonorous public address system, Rolling Stones’ style. What a pilgrimage!

Back to Yangon, airport and Laos via Bankok for one week to recover normal conditions, ouf!

Conclusions:

I will make it short and you’ll understand.

Taking into account, Captain’s suffering : …

I decided to leave May 20th for a 3 to 4 weeks stay, where ?

                           In BURMA!

I go back, and since I can’t go back to France to rob the Oceane toys’s trunk, I’ll buy them in Malaysia at a Kuala Lumpur wholesaler..

I go back to visit the far North and East, Kentung and Puta Oh.

I go back to shout to this good, generous and worthy people, that they are not alone in the world.

Bye bye everybody.

(If I don’t finish in jail you’ll have some continuation).

                                         Don't forget to see the albums photos by clicking" here ".