News 15. Translated by Michel Aronssohn.
Marvelous LAOS
It should be said without beating about the bush. I have liked, loved, adored.
I begin to really know Asia, this country from the first days whispered to my ear: "Take care Captain there are good chances that I become your beloved country!" Vishnou: one of the Gods of the brahma trinity, the protector flying on the Garuda, fabulous bird, endowed with a human body and a vulture’s head, has not mistaken.
I place it equally with my adoptive Cambodia.
Few years ago the millions of elephants country opened itself to tourism. It measures only 236 000 km2 with 5,5 millions inhabitants.
The Popular Democratic Republic of Laos is among the poorest countries. Stuck between Thailand and Vietnam, it must be therefore cautious and prudent facing these two ogres, each with its specific style.
Until the 1975 revolution Laos had a feudal structure. The main part of the country is covered with tropical forest including precious species of trees as the teak and the rosewood. The beautiful and pure wealth of Laos is situated in its rice fields. We’ll see later about the pleasure of dancing in a rice field (dried up) transformed as a discotheque.
An important point is regretted by the Captain, Laos has no access to the sea. However it has the Mekong that crosses it from North to South.
Upon arrival we are seized by the tranquility and the kindness of the Laotians.
A short page of history
The vestiges left by the first inhabitants of Laos are certainly the famous jars of the "plain of the jars" not far from Phonsavan in the province of Xien Kouang.
From the first centuries of our era the Khmers extended their influence southward, the Vat Phou is the proof of it.
In the second half of the XIXth century France was present in Indochina. Our country sent exploration missions that permitted to spread its influence. Trying to make an assessment of the French presence will give very contrasted results. To the exception of the Vientiane construction and the Mekong navigation network, France didn't invest in Laos. During World War II the country was managed by the French collaborationist government, under the Japanese rule
In 1945 the movement" Free Laos" declared the independence of the country. It suffered then a troubled period. In the years 57 and 62 two attempts of government occurred. As of 1964 the Communists ruled alone with Vietnamese support.
It is necessary to know and not to forget that to fight against the guerrilla the American dropped on the north and the East of Laos as well as on the north of Cambodia 2 millions of bombs!!! roughly 500 kg per inhabitant!!! Was it necessary to bomb, who?, with this strength???
In 1997 Laos enters in the ASEAN Group, this helped it to evolve, I have no doubt, but it is also necessary that he solves its internal problems with its different ethnic groups and this by applying the democratic way to use a word that is in the motto of the controlling party
The Trip.
Sunday November 20 I leave Equinox to fly to Singapore, Bangkok, Udon Thani and Non Kai, North of Thailand where I stay one night.
The next day I cross the “Friendship” bridge and here I am in Laos after the visa formalities.
I change money in a bank, it is not possible to put the output in the pocket: for 200 $ the cashier gives me 2 160 000 Kips in 10 000 notes, therefore 216 units. I take the bus in direction of Van Vieng, pretty city with more tourism than Laos. A lot of backpacker and not the best of them comes here, they don't smoke only Marlboro. All is intended for tourists, the guest houses and restaurants are innumerable, a disco has just opened, since Thailand is not far away Thai girls are coming to give some training to the novice Laotian. I don't linger, the following day on 7am I am in the bus to Phonsavan.
The 40 seats bus accommodates 60 people, chairs and stools are installed in the central passage among the bags of rice that didn't find any place on the roof. Driving is right-hand and the roads are good, however buses run slowly and stop every time. The average speed is around 30km/h. After 5 hours, I smell the characteristic odor of burned brake jaws, no one reacts. After a few minutes I warn the driver, he stops and crawl under the bus with pliers and hammer to loosen the jaws, The driver’s assistant gives him the tools. I realize that the driver’s assistant is hunchback. I look in detail and I see a gun barrel out the jacket, the friend was only armed and not hunchback! Later I got the explanation. Two years ago a revolt of some ethnic groups in this country, explains the precautions. We arrive at Phonsavan on 5pm after 10 hours road. A cold wind is blowing. Phonsavan is located on a plateau at 1200m altitude and wind blows often strong.
Here
is the famous Plain of the Jars. Nobody knows the origin of these big
cylindrical stones. They are distributed over this vast plain. Some possess a
lid, and are sculpted. The most probable hypothesis: these are tombs. The
mystery: from where do they come? They are made of chalky rock and no limestone
is found in the region.
One day trip with a local bus and I’am in Luang Prabang, pearl of the North, classified world humanity patrimony by the UNESCO. The city is located at the confluence of the river Mekong and the river Nam Kane, it’s the country’s most beautiful city. It’s situated on the road to China. It is promised to a bright economic future, however it’s to be desired that this development doesn't remove its charm, its tranquility and its sacred character.
I walked for a long time in the streets discovering magnificent Temples, and especially the Mount Phousi with the That Vat Chomsi, stupa of 20m height. Contact with the inhabitants is nice. I didn't hesitate to cross the Mekong to return to a potters village.
Early
morning, on 6am, I’m with a group of Laotians lined up kneeling down for the
alms to the bonzes.
I also went on the Mekong left bank in search for the tomb of Henri Mouhot, the French explorer and naturalist born in Montbéliard (France). He is Angkor Vat’ discoverer. He traveled several times to Asia and was passionately fond of Cambodia and Laos. He died exhausted by the fevers in Luang Prabang, aged 35.
My way is going Northbound to Borten, the border with China. Here no hotel or guest house, so I withdraw to Luang Namtha. Restful city with an interesting market place where I buy lao lao (alcohol of rice strong 50 degrees). Nearby is the border with two neighboring countries, Burma to the Northwest, China to the North. This mountainous province is populated with numerous minorities, with a strong proportion of Soung lao (lao of the mountains).
The following day I go back on the road since there is not much to see here. Return to Oudom Say charming stopping place. It was completely destroyed by the bombings. Today it’s the exchange centre for the trade between China, Vietnam and Thailand.
Back to Luang Prabang, the time spent since the departure urge me to take a fly to Vientiane. I especially appreciate the local buses that allow to discover the landscapes and the villages immersed among the inhabitants, sharing their life. But the same journey as return trip wastes precious days. Previously, I have chosen to travel by night bus, it’s certainly tiring but spares one day!
I’m ready to leave Laos since I had planned a15 days journey corresponding to the visa I took at the border.
Last 2 or 3 days the captain's state of mind was not on the top, something worried me, preoccupied me, as if an outside element refrained me from going ahead. I didn't have to think too long to bring my state of mind back at top level.
After one night rest in Vientiane, I look for the immigration office to extend my visa. I decided to stay 15 days more, I am too happy to stay here.
We are then Friday it is Laos "National Day", our “Bastille day”, Saturday and Sunday off, reopening scheduled next Monday, too late, my visa is expiring tomorrow. When the captain takes a decision, he looks for the solution and don't stay idle. I rush to the central road station and take a minibus to the Thai border, 30 km away. One hour later I am in Thailand. Check in,. I cross the road for check out, the Thai immigration officer told me,: "Hey you have just entered now! " . Thinking that it could be forbidden I answer: "yes my visa was finished and I have my luggage at the airport ", he burst out laughing and chops my exit from Thailand, it was my shortest stay in this country. New visa and I’m back for 15 days more in Laos!
After having visited the North I go Southbound, night stop in Thakhek, the only city where I didn't feel the Laotian kindness and generosity, today I cannot explain why.
I go quickly to Paksé, the Mekong makes a big loop around the city. It’s the Southern Luang Prabang by its geographical position actually not at all comparable.
I
use local bus and travel quickly to the Bolovenses plateau, there are few
tourists in this place, however magnificent. I have chosen the Tad Lo village,
as a stopover. The Bolovenses are inhabited by protomalais of the Khaleune
ethnic group, they are animist and don't dress anymore in traditional costume,
they are very poor people. I go to spend one afternoon in the village of Tat
Sung. Have they already seen a farang?
Certainly,
but surely since a long time. I had the opportunity to take pictures of children
playing naked in the middle of the hens and pigs and the joy to show them the
result, thanks to my camera display , the laughter’s and screams of joy alert
cooking women, they also come to have a look.
Well played Captain you are going to be admitted for some time in the community. I sat down beside one lady’s smoking an enormous cigar. A young boy looks at my arms, he advances his fingers slowly and pull out hairs, new bursts laughter. The Asian are practically hairless. I hesitated to ask lodging for the night, after reflection I keep on walking toward the consecrated hut in the center of the village, where the animist cult is celebrated.
Back to the lodge where I rented a bamboo hut, I savor these marvelous moments spent with the children and the women in this village. Equinox for the time being is far away!
Finally the place that was the main motive of this trip to Laos is coming on.
In the South of Paksé, on the other bank of the Mekong, I take a ferry and go to Champassak. I rent a bicycle and cut across the country paths, direction the VAT POU.
In this southern province, a mysterious territory, once part of Tchen Her empire (VIIth century), stand up the “Vat Phou” or "temple of the mountain." The tradition reports that previously the Kammathan Lord made human sacrifices there. Every year, a virgin couple, with a red flower on the ear, was invited to drink poison.
For this reason, nowadays when flaming red flowers are blooming, it is Vat Phou feast.
This archaeological site is the most interesting and most important in Laos. It’s the cradle of the Khmer civilization. Angkor in Cambodia goes back to the IXth century.
The site is oriented according to an east west axis, the sanctuary faces East toward the rising sun light. The pictures are more explicit than the text and allow to admire the Khmer architecture of the both sites.
Still more to the South toward the Mekong islands very near Cambodia.
The Không’s island is the biggest, with its neighboring islands of Det and Khône they played at the time of the French protectorate an important role in the improvement of the navigation on the Mekong. On Khône island the French built a railway, 14km, long and a bridge, a customs office and a telegraph office. It is still possible to circulate on the bridge, and take pictures of the old steam engines. The rails were dismantled and used as fences.
The most interesting is to share the life of these island’s inhabitants.
I am lucky, I am on the Không island just at the time of a 3 days feast, so I stay there for these 3 days. What ambiance! Early in the morning the funfair stands, sometimes a simple cover on the floor, restaurants and merchant selling everything that can exist in Laos. I take pleasure to go for a walk through the lanes formed by the stands in a rice field (dried and reaped). In Laos people is never bothering you, the sellers shyly ask, only once, if you are interested. In city Tuk Tuk drivers offer their services without insisting. The second day all hotels and guest houses are fully booked. I rent a bicycle to go around the island and I leave during few hours this inebriating crowd. In the evening 3 bands, fortunately far enough from the center, are playing using a very powerful sound system.
I meet 3 French girls already encountered in Champassak. We drink a Lao Lao with honey and we go to one of the three discos. It is the first time I dance in a rice field. We sat at a table with Laotians, a man with a respectable age, thinking that I am their brother or uncle...ask me the permission to dance with one of the girls. The Captain likes to make jokes and explained that he was extremely honored and that the lady was very happy with his initiative, you imagine the bursts of laugh from the 2 other mates.
The last day, early in the morning the main alley was completely blocked to the circulation, big speech from a Democratic Popular Republic VIP. The feast finishes in the afternoon with a pirogue race.
I found back the life of the capital, Vientiane, and prepared my return trip. Four weeks already I am in Laos. It is not possible to take one more new visa since Equinox is loosing patience, alone in its marina.
I travel back with beautiful pictures engraved in my memory, even more beautiful than those in my camera, and with unforgettable moments spent with this people that has certainly less endured than the Cambodian but that is a true example of courtesy and kindness.
Laos rituals
The very particular rituals, mingling Buddhism and animism, are ruling the three main events that are marking the life of a Laotian. The Laotian believes in the reincarnation.
The birth, as the death, is a very important event. The newborn is protected during 3 or 4 weeks by talismans and an object symbolizing sex and placed under his couch, in order to bring him happiness. This period is called "You deuane or You Kam." Generally, one month after the birth, a soukhouane ceremony is organized, named, "Ork deuane", or end of "You deuane".
The marriage is always celebrated around a big soukhouane and is preceded by small preparation feasts that are lasting 2 or 3 days. This preparation is called "Oun dong" and is held at bride’s home. The soukhouane ceremony is also celebrated at the future bride’s home. The future bridegroom, accompanied by his parents and friends, must parley and must offer gifts before the door is opened. The future bridegroom must also bring a dowry according to his situation and the previous negotiations with the future bride’s family.
Finally, the death is the last important event. During several days before the funeral ceremony, the mortuary house is declared "happy house" or" heuane di." Parents and friends drink, play cards day and night, sometimes they sing and dance. The mourning dress is of white color, symbol of purity. The funeral toilet finished, the body is clothed with two dresses, the first one for death, reverse. This duality symbolizes the eternal cycle of birth and death. Sometimes a gold coin is introduced, in the mouth so that he may live among the spirits.
Itinerary
Don't forget to see the albums photos, click " here ".
