Splendid trip in New Zealand Zelande

The choice of the page background obviously matches the New Zealand’s colors, well known to rugby lovers “All Black”.

Captain boarded to Singapore on October 21^st and arrived in Auckland on the 22^nd since he was flying eastward. As Monday 23^rd is “labor day”. Auckland seems asleep, deserted.

The administrative formalities, main goal for this trip are so postponed to Tuesday 24^th.

This country is situated on the antipodes from France, barely 2000 kilometers south east of Australia. The capital, Wellington has twelve hours time difference with France in winter.

New Zealand is composed of two main islands : the northern island (smoking island), the largest one, and the southern island (Jade island) separated by the tiny straight of Cook. 47° latitude south. The southern island offers a great variety of relief, the prettiest landscapes : fjords, glaciers, New Zealand’s Alps (Mount Cook : 3754 m). At the extreme south the Stewart island, or Rakiura in Maori, third island by its area (1746 km²), is situated 30 kilometers south of the southern island, separated by the straight of Foveaux. It counts less than 400 inhabitants, residing mainly in the Oban colony.

The population counts still one eigth Maoris, three quarters are concentrated in the Northern island.

· 1642 : Abel Tasman, a Dutch navigator, discovers the archipelago then populated by Maoris.

· 1769 : The British Cook explores the coasts and take possession on behalf of England.

· Beginning of XIXth century : arrival of the first catholic and protestant missionaries. Their aim is to evangelize the Maoris.

· 1841 : Nomination of an English Governor. A few years later the colony obtains a certain independance vis-à-vis the British Crown.

· Mid XIXth century : Maoris riots against the expansionistic British policy. At the same time discovery of gold fields, growth of cattle breeding

· End of XIXth beginning of XXth century : Liberal and social policy (universal suffrage, pensions, women right of vote as of 1893).

· 1914-1918 and 1939-1945 : Participation of New Zealand to the two world wars.

· 50ties and 60ties : Pro US policy in Asia with the supply of troops during the Korean and Vietnamese conflicts.

· 80ties : The country took the lead of the anti nuclear fight in the Pacific area (Rainbow Warrior affair) mainly against the French tests in Mururoa.

· 2000 : Sailing, New Zealand wins the America’s cup, previously won systematically by the U.S.A.

Weather in New Zealand is humid, windy and temperate. It is also very unsettled : rain, sun, even snow may alternate in a short time, mainly in mountainous areas.

During austral summer, from December to February, the weather is warm and sunny in the Northern island, nice in the Southern island and rather cold in its southernmost part. This is the most convenient period for a visit and for activities linked with nature.

The winter season is mild in the north and in the main part of the south. However at the tip of the Southern Island snowfalls are frequent (ski resorts) and the cold may be chilly.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Nowadays I am sure that it is one of the last heavenly place on earth, an exceptional spot where nature stays untouched, with the outstanding Maoris, faithful to their ancestral traditions.

Being mainly composed of three largest islands and numerous islets, New Zealand is a small country. Its area : 270.000 km² populated by only 3.6 millions inhabitants, that is to say 14 inhabitants by square kilometer.

On Tuesday evening, my administrative formalities completed, I was going down the Auckland’s magnificent main avenue : Queen Street. In the last blocks on the right I am looking after Vulcan lane, advised by my friend Jean Pierre D… There I find the Belgium Café, named also : The Occidental. Beer is excellent along with the mussels with French fries served with the sauces Belgian like ! This reminds me wonderful moments spent in Walloon, in Farciennes, city twinned with my natal city Beaucaire in the south of France.

What the hell Captain is coming to New Zealand just for administrative formalities and eat French fries.

“Yep” as say the New Zealanders (yes), but don’t forget that I am living in Asia and in Asia French fries are scarce.

For digestive purposes I keep walking down Queen street. I am now reaching the harbor. There are three sailing boats, 65 feet America’s cup racing stallions. I am staring at them a long moment. A crew member is coiling ropes and sees my admiring glance. After exchanging few words he offers me to come on board. I immediately throw my shoes out and I touch everything, ropes, winches … I am at the wheel, I close my eyes, 16 crews, speed 22 knots, a dream is passing. I am thinking to Equinoxe 43 feet, 8 knots when everything is right.

Yep but onboard Equinoxe there is pastis (a french liquor) to drink (rather, actually, there was!).

He told me :”Should you go to NZ, if you agree, I come to join you to travel together for a few days”.

I email him the name of my hotel and here we are in the tourist office to fix the itineraries.

Here, it is like Singapore, nothing is left to chance, everything is thought and nothing is going wild. My arrival at the airport was easy since the security agents knew that I was coming from Singapore. My friend Michael has been entitled to a thorough luggage inspection since he was coming from Manila

We start the discovery of this superb country. Infinite sand beaches, valleys with a Mediterranean climate with plenty vineyards and orchards (stop groaning you, “stay-at-home, slipper fans”, even though in some places it looks like ... It is worth coming ! We are in NZ, France is far away at all regards), forests or meadows, volcanoes or lakes, everything is absolutely pure, eternal snow, fjords set right in the middle of mountains : nature plays a spectacular and poignant show with an upsetting beauty.

The New Zealanders are great sport and adventure lovers, sailing, diving, rafting, ski, paragliding, rugby, kayak… They are the product of two cultures : the Maori tradition inherited from the first inhabitants and the legacy of the first British pioneers.

I discover Rotorua, famous for its thermal activity, warm water springs, geysers and marshes full of various mineral layers, Rotorua is also famous for its wealth and its Maori culture>

The Maoris arrived more than 1000 years ago on board of their canoes. After exploring the island, they christened it “land of the big white cloud”. The Europeans landed only during the XVIIIth century.

The Maori culture is revealed through songs, myths, stories linking nowadays inhabitants to their ancestors. The maraes, wooden carved houses are meeting points and the center of the community life. While keeping on maintaining their affection to songs, dances, traditional food and sacred jade objects, Maoris are welcoming their visitors with the same warmth and confidence as their ancestors. New Zealand gives an example of an harmonious integration of Maori and British culture.

The Haka is a Maori people ritual dance. It was performed during ceremonies, welcoming feasts, or before going at war.

In the past Maori warriors danced the Haka having in mind to scare the enemy tribes. Nowadays this dance is famous throughout the world owing to the fame of the rugby national team, the All Blacks. The players, with a black outfit, traditionally dance a Haka at the beginning of the competition, in front of obviously scared adversaries. This frightening effect comes mainly from the All Blacks “manliness” and their aggressiveness. The physical challenge traditionally imposed by the New Zealanders begins well before the match.

The Haka occupies a major part in the New Zealand cultural life and constitutes a basic element of the national identity.

We enter a Maori village welcomed by a vibrant Kia Ora (welcome) and, to respect the habit : with closed eyes, nose against nose, hand in hand, each one select his partner.

The next day the night bus drives us to Wellington. On 6 am we are boarding the ferry for a four hours crossing. We land on the Southern Island. Without wasting time we move toward Christchurch.

Christchurch is the main town in the Southern Island and the second New Zealand’s town. It is chiefly known for its cathedral, its superb gardens, and its parThe next day the night bus drives us to Wellington. On 6 am we are boarding the ferry for a four hours crossing. We land on the ks, museums, restaurants and its nightlife. Cultural events and sport activities are numerous in this area. Christchurch owns this historical charm along with the vibrant and contemporaneous aspect given by large cities. “Garden town” it is famous for its old buildings marked by British and French influence.

Canterbury museum is worth the visit, Maori art and exhibitions showing the Antarctic discovery, the Asian fine arts, New Zealand’s birds. The museum coffee shop shows a superb view on the botanical garden.

Queenstown and its Wakatipu lake surrounded by mountains, offers a quiet stay. This town attracts many tourists in summer and in winter.

Number 1 destination for adventure sports and open air activities it stays the preferred destination for the country’s skiers and snowboarders.

It was our two days stopping place. The first day to travel to Milford Sound and cross the fjord until the Tasmanian sea.

We navigate in a cliff circus, razor carved, glaciers surrounded by vertiginous waterfalls.

The next day discovery of the city and stroll to the mountain surrounding the lake.

We keep on going up the Southern Island west coast with a break in Greymouth allowing us to reach easily the Fox Glacier.

Back in Greymouth the train just cross the island to reach Christchurch on the east coast where we take off for our starting point, Auckland.

Auckland Cosmopolitan town, opened to the world, is attractive with a well off way of life. Auckland ranks 8^th among the most pleasant towns in the world on equal terms with Geneva and Zurich. Crime rate is among the lowest. The city has numerous green spaces and a wonderful sea front.

Its strong nautical tradition gave to the city its nickname “Sail City”. It is also the headquarters of the All Blacks rugbymen. As a evidence the picture shows that, in New Zealand, the people is couting, not only the days but also hours and minutes until the coming World Cup.

I plan to come back soon to New Zealand since I still have a lot to discover, furthermore going to the third island at the southern tip : Stewart Island.

Stewart island position 46° 57 South ; 167 57 East
Cape Horn position 56° 05 South ; 067 14 East

I’ll give up traveling with bus, rather I’ll rent a camping car for more freedom.

New Zealand is a country where the whole world variety and wealth are concentrated.

It is possible to meet all the climates, all the landscapes, all the atmospheres.