News 1'!. Translated by Michel Aronssohn.
The Captain has decided to take of vacations !
Two destinations have been selected with purpose.
A trip to Philippines with one stopover in Japan.
What are the reasons who induced me to travel eastbound to Asia with Equinox ?
After the Karine and Océane departure, the marina looked quite gloomy to me and the exhaust pipe of my beautiful Harley Davidson was sadly out of tune..
To avoid my state of mind descending to the abyss I decided to counter attack.
So I left eastbound looking for yacht clubs and wonderful moorings in Philippines and to discover Japan.
Arrived in Manilla November 17th at 3pm.
I selected in my Gallimard guidebook bought years ago in France a district in the center called " Ermita." I show to the taxi driver three names of hotels selected in the book as clean and not very expensive. My first contact with the Filipinos was a loud laugh: " Sir these hotels don't exist anymore since a long time! "
Being persuaded that he cheated me, I insisted :
" A friend of mine was a guest last week in one these three hotels"
Second loud laugh!
I gave up. ok drive me wherever you want but in Ermita.
I am in front of the City State Tower Hotel in Mabini street. A waiter opens me the door and I walk into a luxury hotel.
A room for 17 € breakfast breakfast included ?. Incredible.
A tour in the city in order to take some marks and a break in a bar where the waitress are quite inspiring.
Some tireness on this first day guided me quickly to my bed right in the middle of the beautiful room.. Oh, facing the bed was a mirror like on Equinox!
The following morning I asked for the breakfast voucher …and got two. As I reported the mistake I was advised : “no error, it is a room for two persons” !
Understood ! No more waste as of tomorrow morning.
What pleasure to discover Manilla and its buses.
A jump to the not too inviting Manilla Yacht club, and, after a walk along the beach I visited the old Manilla, the historic Manilla " Intramuros."
It is erected on the southern shore of the Pasig river between the former Chinese district and the Rizal park.
Founded in 1571 it was fortified and was surrounded with moats. In this 4 km area 400 houses, 18 churches, hospital, barrack and house of the governor were crowded.
Intramuros was practically completely destroyed by the World War II bombings. Today, buildings of glass and concrete bloomed but the municipality has preserved the center and some remarkable hotels as well as the St. Augustin church, a survivor of the bombings and of 7 earthquakes.
Picture below :: Casa Manila, , Beautiful restored spanish home:
Manila Philippines capital, in the center of the island of Luzon.
Philippines are situated between the 21st and the 4th degrees North latitude in the most western part of the Pacific Ocean 7107 islands, Equinox has miles to sail !
The world atlas confirms its Asian origin however the country and a amazing blend of civilizations. The Filipinos mainly of Malay or Polynesian origin are largely mixed as a consequence of the Spanish and Chinese presence.
Philippines the only mainly catholic country of Asia where no traces of the hinduist and Budhist religions are remaining. However some mosques are found in the south.
In the culinary domain Philippines is eating by his own. No spicy dishes, curry or saté. Cooking is inspired by various influences: simplicity of the traditional fishers dishes, fancy of the Chinese cooking, Spanish conservatism.
The geographical position of this country allowed it to develop regardless its neighbors.
No big kingdom has been founded here, no ambitious conquerors to launch military expeditions where ever.
In 1521 when the Spanish discovered Philippines they had to face a multitude of small sultanates and kingdoms with no centralized powership. Despite the efforts for unification, the regional differences are perpetuating until now and survived to the spanish domination an to the following American hegemony;
The colonial experience summarized familiarly by the expression: " 400 years of convent, 50 years of Hollywood", left certainly some traces but the result remains deeply Filipino.
A tour to the south of Manila allows to discover small villages like Alangbans, Muntinlupas and Las Pignas. Obviously no tourists. The inhabitants stare at me, become rapidly curious and enter into contact : from where are you coming? How do you find our country? They invite me to sit and I am immediately admitted by this small community.
Before leaving to Japan some days were left, and I took a bus to the North of Manila. Olangapo, situated exactly at 250 km to the north west.
Beautiful city especially the superb beaches with particularly Subic bay. A remarkable yacht club with a very reasonable monthly fee for Equinox. I recorded the point in the Gps to sail into the bay and moor at the Yacht club.
I make an escapade to Angeles, former American base, this city has nothing special.
Back to Manila and fast gear up for the departure to the country of the rising sun.
The plane takes off the 25th at 2 o'clock pm.
Here am I at Narita Airport.
Information office :
Do you want a hotel? In what district ?
Wherever. I don’t know any.
_Nipori is a very nice district.
_Ok for Nipori.
What is you budget ?
To avoid being ridiculous the Captain is playing “wealthy” according to the prices practiced in Malaysia: 30 euros.
_Oh for this price I only have a tatami hotel 2,5m by 2m.
_Very good!!!
So I board the railway direction of Nipori.
The hotel is a traditional Japanese house (ryokan) and the two owners are renting rooms.
One of the two " old birch" is quite rude and wants money before I take possession of the “room”. Ok I have to go to the bank.
I sollicited 4 machines, no one accepted international cards!
Difficult way back to the hotel, she doesn't speak English, so the discussion was easier !
The next day I learn that the Post Office only has an international distributor: well!
I decide to make the tour of the district, first visit to fall on a traditional cemetery, I learned that in this country everythingl is traditional.
Before every tomb long wooden boards are arranged and engraved with inscriptions.
The time is rainy and cold.
That am I doing here? I should never have stayed one week in Philippines before coming.
I am here so I stay … however,
I decide to switch hotel, I go a bit more to the north at Minowa, a hotel with friendly style for backpackers.l: It is possible to warm up readymade dishes in the kitchen or wash the clothes… . The prices are obviously equivalent.
I meet a frenchman, Mario, drawing teacher. He knows Japan well and give me a wealth of useful infos.
Visit of Tokyo station and Maru-no-uchi areat: business and finance district.
People remembers Tokyo as a huge crushing urban area and not its cool city-dwellers.
With its suburbs Tokyo counts around fifteen millions inhabitants. The courtesy of the Japanese people alleviates the above staded awkwardness.
Ikeburo :
This district became a big railway center. The station is covered by one biggest department store in the world; the Dépato Seibu. Left to the station I visited the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Space that attracts the futuristic artists. You could listen to classical or modern music concerts, while the immediate surroundings become populated with Mc Donald and other lousy fast food:
Not very far another important district in the eyes of the japanese people:
Shinjuku.
Hectic atmosphere and at night, animated life, giving its nickname of " nightless district" The rates held me away from the bars with mirror pavements and love-hotels.
To the west of Shinjuku is Nishi Shinjuku with Tokio Town Hall named also " Tokyo Metropolitan Government", this building is topped ty two towers culminating at 243m. The Japanese stress that it cost 1,1 billion of dollars. I took the opportunity to climb to the 43rd floor, the weather was covered so I have not been able to see Mount Fuji.
On the picture I wear red eyeglasses! These glasses have a history, obviously Japanese :
I have broken the branches of my eyesight glasses. Since the captain is a handyman he replaced the branch with a rubber band that was amusing certain masculine or feminine Japaneses in the subway, I was not sure they mocked but, as a japanese during an earthquake, I staid imperturbable.
In a post office, the employee noticed my tinkered glasses and shown me along with printouts a box with several pairs of glasses, I selected one and immediately the comfort improved. I finished with the postman and was ready to take leave but the teller called me back and demanded the glasses back. I think I had just committed in Japan an unknown and unspeakable act. I apologized the Japanese way by inclining my head many times, explaining him that they were very useful, I proposed him to pay for it! The reply was a " ohrr ohrrr ohrrr ohrrrrrr" what can be translated by: " not possible." I continued to sink deeper down. When suddenly he asked me to wait, ran to argue with his superior who stares at me and tilt his head several times, I did the same adding some " ohrr ohrrr ohrrrr!)
The teller searched in a drawer and packed something in a paper, he came back to the window and gave me discreetly the precious packet . I thank the Japanese and left the post office. Hardly out, I was not able to wait anymore, I opened the gift: it was a red pair of eyeglasses!
I wonder nowadays if he wanted to please me or if he considered me as a beggar and made a alms.
I go then to the district of the oldest temple of Tokyo founded in 628.
Asakusa.
This district became full of tourists however it subsists an atmosphere and fragrances to no one else similar.
This great censer copper made casts smoke and the believers smokes themselves on the body parts they want to protect or to cure.
Asakusa not being very far away from my hotel, I should say shelter, about 40minutes walk, I decide to go strolling in the streets. I discover shops and simple houses clean and pretty.
The streets are clean, the bicycles well ordered in their parking lots. I saw a policeman giving a ticket to a bicycle because the wheel was too far on the sidewalk. Like cars, the bicycles have plates! The lady came out of the boutique and bowed down to the policeman while taking the ticket.
In Europe and especially in France, should a policeman fines a bicycle!!! Ohrr ohrrr ohrrrr, he will be in great trouble.
What is the the biggest fish market of the world??? Tokyo!!!
No comments only pictures :
Impossible to leave Japan without meditating in Hiroshima.
I take the night bus on October 27th and arrive in the early morning in this city marked in history as Nagasaki, by the madness of some irresponsible Americans.
On August 06th, 1945 at 8h15am the first atomic bomb explodes and Hiroshima enters in history while disappearing.
The town revived from her ashes as other Japanese cities recovered from earthquakes.
I paid a visit to the Peace memorial Park, with the cenotaph and the flame monument that bear the inscription,: " stay in peace so that the mistake should not be committed again. "
In the museum I was able to listen on a computer the registrations of survivors comments, terrifying and instructing.
Many pupils are coming every day to meditate on this place, inheritance of the horror perpatrated by the Americans on civil population.
Return to Tokyo
The departure time approaches. On November 1st I must be at
the airport in the afternoon, I stroll a last time in the capital.
In the big Tokyo railway station a Sumo group crosses the hall, I don't hesitate to go toward them to compare my " waist", ok I am still thin.
I cross two charming Japanese girls in traditional kimono they accept to pose for a picture.
Japan, a fascinating country where nobody speaks English and where it is difficult to live for a captain accustomed to has other ways of life and traditions. However I appreciated and I have been seduced by the kindness, and the gentleness of this people
On november 1st at 11pm the Captain disembarks at manila and back to the palace l!!!
At last a room 5 by 6 meters with refrigerator, air conditionned and mirror.
I throw my bag and suitcase and immediately I take a plunge in the next bar, ohrr ohrrr ohrrrr a 0,25 € beer pleeeze ! The good life is back and the Captain recovers his strength and vigor.
So after one not too relaxing night. I feel cool and ready to continue my adventures in the islands.
So a short plane jump to Mindanao, southernmost Philippine island . When reaching Davao I learn that an Italian reporter has just been kidnapped.
No possibility to sail with Equinox, so I go to the Saban island, nothing very fascinating, Not worth staying there, I fly back to Manila.
I decide to go to Mindoro Island, exactly in Puerto Galera.
Three hours in a bus and two hours ferry boat. I reach a charming city that possesses a sheltered mooring with a yacht club. I rent a boat to take the GPS marks of all interesting spots.
Magnificent beaches and nice people. The island is not yet invaded by the mass tourism
Back to Manila I prepare an escapade to the North of Luzon. For this journey, I have asked a friend of mine, Mhessy to assist me as a guide.
Ready for many bus hours !
Baguio a big village at 1500m altitude possesses a lake, so I may initiate Mhessy to the art of navigation.
Trip to Bontok and a dirt track drives us to a lost village: Sagada where it is possible to visit caves used as burials.
The last village is Banawe, known for its terrace rice fields at altitude 1800 m.
Nights are cool and pleasant there.
We are back to Manila after one night in the bus. I kiss my guide who is eager to see ma again and why not sail on board of Equinox.
I remember Tokyo’s motto: " Everything is possible."
The journey is finished. The Captain will meet back Equinox in the south of Malaysia and prepare a 15 days trip to Cambodia before flying back to France!!!
For the very least a time possible.
Ohrr Ohrrr Ohrrrrr Equinox I am baaaaack !!!
Don't forget to see the albums photos, click: "here".