News 14. Translated by Michel Aronssohn.
Treck in Cambodia, Ratanaki.
The Ratanakiri is located in the mountainous Northeast of Cambodia. It is confining with Vietnam to the East and Laos to the North.
The jungle covers the major part of the region. The Khmers living in the Ratanakiri being an ethnic minority and are divided themselves into 12 groups. Out of them the Kroeungses, Loeu, Tampuan, Jarai, Tampoun, Katcha Husk.
Banlung is the capital of the Province.
The Ratanakiri is part of these few regions of the world that are still virgin.
The tourism begins to develop.
The city of Banlung is small enough but has some guests houses and hotels.
Traditions and customs.
In the past, all villages were fortified with sharp bamboos fences, the entries were protected by long doors passageway and the surroundings trapped of bamboo lancets sometimes poisoned.
Currently the houses are built on stilts with a mix of wood and bamboos, the buildings are sturdy and perfectly fit to the environment. They can be oriented according to a north - south axis.
The size is variable however the design is similar. They are always composed of a common part forming a terrace where the visitors are welcomed and where vigils are held.
Each family has its home, each family owns its domestic outfit..
People sleeps the head toward East, where the spirits are residing. As a matter of fact the jars of rice alcohol, main family wealth, are stored along the eastern wall.
Contrarily to the Cambodians of the plain, particularly prude and backward as regard sexuality before wedding (are they right ?), the highlanders of Kroeung ethnic group have the particularity to have some very up to date habits with regard to the passage of adolescence to the adult age.
When a girl reaches the age to marry, his father constructs a small house for her, in front of the family home.
While keeping on doing the daily household jobs the maiden is considered as a young adult and is free to welcome anyone.
Obviously the captain observes with a real interest the small house!
The Kroeuungs only are also building high houses for male bachelors. It should be mentioned that the Brou and certain other tribes have similar pre marital custom.
The presence of small houses facing the domestic home is sufficient to identify these customs.
However the non Khmer tribes living in Ratanakiri are used to build their village according to a circular map : 20 or 30 huts facing a common house placed in the center of the village. of môn-khmer
Style of non Khmer houses is certainly the prettiest since they are ornated on their front of decorative geometric patterns made with weaven bamboos and proper to each tribe: lines, grids, chevrons, lozenges... representing the cricket jaw, the toucan beak, the kapopier leaves, the buffalo teeth etc.
Close to the villages the water point where, twice a day, people meet.
Not far also, the cemetery, where the deads are the subject of frequent ceremonies aiming to facilitate their passage in the world of the spirits.
Sacrifices, libations, grants of food, the cemetery is also a place of life; it is an extremely important place.
The very elaborated, tombs, are decorated in their corners of statues supposed to represent the deceased parents.
Every tribe sublimes his own sensitivity into the funeral art, the most beautiful statuary being nevertheless the Jaraïs one, their "weepers" being famous.
Various animal representations, elephants tusks, some. artwork evokes pre-Columbian art while others recall their common origin : the Borneo’s Dayaks primitive statues.
These patterns are also met in the basketwork, the tissues and the sculptures ornating the familiar objects.
Strolling around Banlung
Magnificent Treks in the jungle.
Pleasant moments around the famous Yeak Laom volcanic lake.
Not to be missed, the precious stones mines and the numerous cascades where, sometimes, very pretty “naiads” are bathing !
I discovered this lost and magnificent Cambodian spot while having luck to live in a family.
It allowed me to discover a bit more in depth the mentality, mainly the Kroeungses’ where I was living.
I go with Rha, head of household, to the market to change a 100 US$ bill, large sum in Cambodia and extremely large here. Whe contact the money changer, I give my green back waiting for his reaction.
What a surprise he notever stares at the money and count the change in small notes.
It is necessary to know that when I change such a amount in Phnom Penh the changer turns back and forth the bill several times and if it is only folded too much, refuses it.
On our way back I explain to Rha my surprise and replied " You were with me, so your were a Kroeung, and as a Kroeung doesn't know lie therefore trusted you."
I didn't say my thoughtsn but if, one day, there has as many tourists as Angkor, it would be advisable the changer buys a strong magnifying lens !
A question raised often by tourists who, in Phnom Penh or elsewhere, knowing that I was back from the Ratanakiri :: " is it dangerous? ."
You should not go alone at night far from the village, this is the only advice I give, and I always respect this rule..
I also answer that, in France, there are sometimes holdups in parking lots, as well at red lights in certain cities.
Rha and his wife owns a no storey house, there is electricity and water, drawn out of a well. Knowing that the electric pump had some problems, I bought in Phnom Penh a new one. We installed it together.
What a surprise !
He dismantles the new pump and eliminates the valve that keep water in the hose to facilitate the prime. I warn him that he may have some difficulties to start, not at all says he, it will start by itself, you’ll see.
Then he suppresses the electric motor cooling fan and isolate with care the electric cables. He attach the group to a rope (forbidden word to the Captain) and lay down it in the well with its electric cable.
I suggest him to measure the length of the aforesaid " rope", OK he replied to me he and he added one meter more !!!
The pump is in water, ok but also the motor !!!
No problem here they all work like that.
Needless to say that I touched the hose with a certain fear when showering !.
This generous and helpful couple, far Avys’ cousin, have an adorable child, a small 7 years old girl named Tee Ween.
She doesn't attend school, I didn’t ask why.
She must repeat all the time the very long Cambodian alphabet along with the numbers from 0 to 100.
I let her ask to Dad if she would like to come with me for some months, she jumped with joy.
Therefore it was necessary to organize her exit from Cambodia.
So I am back to Phnom Penh with Tee Ween.
I omit the details and problems raised with Avy and other family members, money, passport…
Conclusion :
Tee Ween tee is on Avy’s sister passport.
In Kuala Lumpur I bought 2 or 3 kg of cheap junk jewelry for Avy who returned to Phnom Penh to sell them, and make some profit, actually the profit is important for her since it is equal to the purchase cost plus the profit actually realized, nice business, except for me. however considering the price of the 3kgs jewelry. No problem and everybody is happy.
Know we are again on board of Equinox; the Avy’s sister, Chenda, the Captain and a small Kroeung girl Tee Ween who is learning English and French.
I am waiting for possible questions about the sister. Unfortunately she only makes the laundry, the kitchen and the dishes.
It’s my beautiful stepsister, period.
We sail to Tioman island next week, Tee Ween will discover the corals!
And the captain is happy! Hello everybody.
Don't forget to see the albums photos, click " here ".